The Korea Herald

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Emerging designers bring fresh ideas to 'Generation Next' shows

Iryuk blurs line with genderless looks, Kimzisu embodies defiant desires

By Hwang Dong-hee

Published : Oct. 12, 2022 - 21:30

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Models present Iryuk’s 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week) Models present Iryuk’s 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week)

Emerging designers in the Korean fashion scene took to the stage on the second day of Seoul Fashion Week held at Dongdaemun Design Plaza.

Taking the theme of “Between," Lim Wu-jun of Iryuk presented a collection that was a mix of the designer's freewheeling creativity and the reality of clients' needs.

Lim was the first of seven rookie designers participating in this year’s fashion week in the Generation Next section, where designers with less than seven years of business experience present their collections for the 2023 spring-summer season.

The first look to open the runway show was a white pair of skirt-like pants paired with a navy jacket. Oversized silhouettes and layered looks rocked the outdoor runway. The mix and match of shorts with jackets and vests showed Lim’s reinterpretation of "commercial" items. Denim fabric and jeans with different patterns also stood out, with a simple chain necklace adding another layer to the look.

A model presents Iryuk’s 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week) A model presents Iryuk’s 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week)

A unisex brand based on a neutral and genderless look, Iryuk pushes the boundaries of gender and age, a point underscored by a lone female model walking the runway with 15 male models.

Models present Kimzisu's 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week) Models present Kimzisu's 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week)

Another rookie designer hitting the stage was Kim Ji-soo of Kimzisu, whose collection displayed a concept of modern wedding with a story of “A love letter from one rebel to another.”

A white silk dress with an asymmetrical cut worn with a white blazer opened the runway. Cut asymmetrically and with uneven trimmings, gowns in bold colors such as blazing purple and brilliant emerald green caught the attention.

Several models held drapes of wedding veils in matching colors dragging them along on the runway. Some held bouquets of long-stemmed or black flowers, while some sported tattoos on their arms, adding a bold touch to the looks.

A model presents Kimzisu's 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week) A model presents Kimzisu's 2023 spring-summer collection at Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Wednesday. (Seoul Fashion Week)

Other rookie designers participating in Generation Next this year are Jiminlee’s Lee Ji-min, Anonymouth’s Hong Woo-sung, Ajobyajo’s Kim Se-hyung, Ensue’s Hwang En-sue and Wovement’s Lee Du-ra.

Seoul Fashion Week, which is held biannually, kicked off Tuesday at Dongdaemun Design Plaza presenting 2023 spring-summer collections from 30 Korean designers. The country’s largest fashion show runs through Saturday.