Seoul Fashion Week’s first day heavy on contrasts, harmonies
By Choi Si-youngPublished : Sept. 4, 2024 - 11:05
Seoul Fashion Week returned Tuesday, with contrasts and harmonies taking center stage on the runway where 21 brands are expected to present their spring-summer 2025 collections over the next five days.
First off was Youser, a unisex brand launched in 2011 that prides itself on blurring the boundary between deconstruction and minimalism. The result was a relaxed silhouette highlighted by pleats and tucks, which render the collection playful and three-dimensional, according to designer Lee Moo-yeol.
Varying colors and textures, alongside pockets and embroidery, added to the depth of what could have been an otherwise monotonous lineup.
“Every element of clothing functions like a painting technique,” Lee said of his latest creations, likening them to a canvas.
Next up was Ceeann, led by designer Lee Cee-ann who identifies with dualism -- a merging of ideas and trends, like masculinity and femininity.
A selection of bodycon pieces and pieces with revealing cut-outs for womenswear was followed by masculine silhouettes with feminine tailoring for menswear. Chest-baring tops were paired with wide satin trousers. White and cream anchored the color palette.
Among the models on the runway were some older women, a stark contrast to earlier catwalks. They posed against the backdrop of throbbing EDM beats that played up the punk exuberance and escapism of the collection. “A free-spirited Bohemian message,” Ceeann’s Lee said of her collection.
“It is now time to set sail on a true journey. … Everyone’s journey toward one’s destination guided by their own North Star,” Lee added.
Sustainability, a recurring theme of the five-day event which the organizers prioritize, could not be ignored during the presentations.
Ulkin, a brand known for upcycling and promoting social values as well as creative aesthetics, had models plod down the runway sporting oversized jackets and blazers in a steady parade of dark colors. Live music performances followed the show.